Global Racing: My extreme operation show shocked the audience

The viewers in the live broadcast room were shocked:

"What does Tatsumi mean? He wants to surf such a big wave?"

"Does Chen Shen know what a ten to twenty meter wave means?"

"I don’t really understand. If it’s all water, a ten- to twenty-meter wave won’t matter. But Chen Shen jumped over 50 meters of water and kayaked through a 55-meter waterfall."

"That's different, surfing has the dangers of surfing."

Liu Jing became nervous again and explained:"The small waves that most people usually play are not very dangerous, but if they are more than three meters, they may stun people. The waves of ten meters or twenty meters are huge, and the water volume is huge, and the waterfall is far away. It's incomparable. It can be taken in an instant and is enough to knock someone out. If there is a reef underneath, it will be even more dangerous. And even if you are not knocked out, the waves behind you will hit you one after another, making you unable to float. When he got up, he couldn't breathe. Not to mention his escape, even the speedboat couldn't rush in to save him.

Lin Hai said:"Don't underestimate the ocean, it's really fatal.""28

Those who knew a little bit about surfing were all shocked.

People who didn’t know surfing easily misunderstood surfing into two extremes.

Some people infinitely magnified the danger of surfing. When they think of surfing, they think of struggling in the sea with huge waves. Then It's wrong. In fact, most people only play on very small waves. For a novice, just standing on a small white wave and skating for a while can be very happy. If you get more advanced, you can surf for a while. It would be even better to learn a few tricks on a two-meter green wave. As long as you take precautions, pay attention to surfing traffic rules, and don't steal other people's waves and cause collisions, there is basically no danger.

But On the other hand, it is wrong to think that surfing is all about water and there is no danger. Once the wave exceeds three meters, it is dangerous, and if it exceeds ten meters, it is definitely an extreme sport. Once it wipes out, the surfer loses control. If you accidentally fall into the water while balancing on your surfboard, or if your speed is too high for a big wave, it is very dangerous. Even if there are rescuers nearby, they may not be able to save you.

"Young man, the waves are too big now. You can't go out to sea. People will die."The owner of Lanpo Marine Products Store, a middle-aged uncle wearing a plaid shirt and shorts, persuaded. He felt that Chen Yi might be a novice, so he didn't know the terror of a ten-meter wave.

"It's okay. I'm very skilled. Please help me put on the anti-slip wax. Forget it, I'll do it myself."Chen Yi said. Seeing that the shop owner was trying to stop him, he simply picked up the anti-skid wax and applied it himself. The so-called anti-skid wax is a special wax for surfboards. It is applied to the surfboard to prevent it from slipping, otherwise it will be stepped on with bare feet. It’s so slippery to stand on a hard surfboard that you can’t stand firmly. Don’t mess around, it’s really too dangerous," said a Global Racing staff member.."I'll be responsible for anything that happens. I didn't commit a foul and you stopped me. Otherwise, you were really deliberately restricting me."Chen Yi said.

The staff is crying. We are not restricting you because we are clearly afraid that you will die. Now that the matter has come to this, there is no way to stop them. They can only prepare speedboats and be ready to rescue at any time. But looking at the more and more They couldn't help but feel panic as the huge waves came higher and higher.

Chen Yi quickly put on the anti-slip wax, went into the locker room, put on a pair of swimming trunks, took the surfboard, and walked to the beach. This was his first time naked. With her upper body on, her figure immediately set the live broadcast room on fire

"Damn it, what kind of perfect figure is this?"

"Those eight-pack abs, those mermaid lines, oh my god"

"Chenshen, I love you"

"Chen Shen, I want to give birth to a monkey with you."

The men were envious of Chen Yi's figure, and the girl fans were even more excited and crazy. However, when they saw Chen Yi walking towards the beach, their admiration was quickly replaced by fear. As

Chen Yi walked, he observed a little and saw that the wind was coming from away. In the shore wind, the direction of the wave is towards Moon Island. I can't help but be very satisfied. The program team still considered it carefully when setting the way forward. Otherwise, if the direction of the wave is in the opposite direction, it will be useless to surf again. It is still far from the sea water. When he was six or seven meters away, he suddenly rushed forward. After running three or four meters and accelerating, he threw the skateboard on the beach, stepped on it, and then used the inertia and the slope of the beach to slide directly on the beach. Slide. After two or three meters, it rushed into the sea water. There were waves on the beach, but this kind of offshore wave was fast and strong, which was not suitable for surfing, especially at the junction of sea water and sand, where the waves had collapsed. This caused the surfboard to rush into the sea water. In an instant, he lost his balance, but Chen Yi stepped on the surfboard, exerted force with the toes of his right foot, stepped down on the tail of the board, and turned the tip of the board with his left foot. He turned 360 degrees on the sea, and instantly crossed a row of collapsing waves. , the forward inertia has not been exhausted, and he continues to glide forward. There are only a few waves on the sea, and Chen Yi uses this little wave to keep the sea floating and balanced.

The buoyancy of a surfboard is actually not enough to support a person Yes, if it is still water, no matter how well balanced you are, you will sink if you stand on it. Only when there are waves and the driving force of the waves can you float. In this little reverse wave, Floating up was extremely difficult. Even Chen Yi could do it with the help of the inertia of rushing forward.

Fortunately, further ahead, there was a 230 wave of more than three meters. Chen Yi rushed up the wave wall and descended. Squat down, rush to the upper part of the wave wall, draw an arc along the upper part of the wave wall, the surfboard flicks in the air and throws a beautiful splash, returns to the middle of the wave wall, and is pushed by the wave to slide rapidly.

The wave is not direct There is an angle when shooting towards the coast. Chen Yi slides along the wave wall in the direction away from the coast, so that he can rush towards Moon Island without being washed ashore. There have been times like this before when I was drifting on a bamboo alone. The feeling of riding a wave, but at this moment, it is the real wave riding, just like the king of the sea, controlling the waves as the driving force for forward movement.

The audience in the live broadcast room was stunned, and the barrage area suddenly exploded

"WTF, WTF, WTF"

"Instead of paddling on your stomach, just run straight from the beach into the waves?"

"The surfing instructor told me that you can’t rush over the nearshore waves first. He also said that you should lie down on the surfboard and wait for the wave. You should seize the right moment to catch the wave. You can’t stand up too early. He also said that if the wave has collapsed, then you can’t. Rushed... As a result, Chenshen made a series of wrong demonstrations, and not only succeeded, but also became a god operation. Is there a surfing instructor here? Can you please come out and explain?"

"The surfing instructor said, I’m so fucking confused."

"I don't care what the reason is, I just know that this is so cool"

"Come on, this is a great opening."

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