Remember in one second [End of the God Station] Mobile phone user input address: m.xinwanben.com

The turbulent sea level continues to extend vastly in front of us, and the dark blue sea water shows a trend of gradually deepening, galloping all the way towards the horizon. At the end of the line of sight, only a large area of ​​black can be seen, which cannot be depicted at all. Under that deep sea, what kind of abyss is hidden, magnificent and magnificent.

There were hardly any clouds above the blue sky, and the golden sunlight fell down vertically without any obstruction, creating ripples on the shimmering sea, smearing each wave with a layer of light color, Let the roaring ocean change into a completely different color, calm and wonderful, as if it opened its arms and gave birth to the origin of life in the world.

But at this moment, an excited voice shouted, breaking the quiet peace, "Come!"

A small figure was lying on the long and narrow surfboard, and seeing the jelly-colored waves swept in in the distance, he slid his arms nimbly and moved towards the direction of the waves. Against the background of the vast sea, the wave looked like it was no more than the height of a finger; but compared to the small figure, it was nearly as tall as three people. Life-destroying waves.

However, the figure on the ivory-white surfboard showed no fear at all, but was extremely excited. He looked at the huge wave in front of him with all his attention, and stood up quickly when the head of the board could feel the rising momentum of the wave. The legs are slightly bent, the center of gravity is grasped, and then the whole person climbs all the way up on the waves.

I saw him walking through the mint blue waves, his open arms like goshawks, soaring in the wind, the refreshing waves were constantly flying in the air, mixed with golden and blue halos, one by one. Duo exploded and slapped sparsely on the cheek, in a trance, as if the whole person was integrated with the ocean.

The waves rose to the highest point, he also stepped on the surfboard to the highest point, and then penetrated the thin layer of the wave canopy, the whole person seemed to be riding on the waves, the center of gravity of the body was solid and stable, perfectly balanced and accurate The control makes the magnificent waves of the sea surrender to the surfboard, and the natural sliding becomes a kind of beautiful enjoyment.

The waves calmed down little by little, and the surfboard gradually returned to the sea level. Finally, the man standing on the surfboard raised his arms high and his bent knees stood completely straight. Raising his arms and cheering, the cheerful laughter danced in the roar of the roaring waves.

Paul raised his hands high and applauded, with a big smile on his face. Even without any words, his body expressed the most real feelings in his heart. He turned his head and looked at the surfing buddies beside him. , asked loudly, "Is this really his second time surfing?"

Andre Hamilton also applauded and congratulated him, and replied sideways, "You shouldn't have come to ask me. It's not me who called Renly a lunatic." Andre shrugged, not surprised at all. "My personal advice, though, is to never try to speculate on his behavior, because he will always frustrate you."

There was a hint of ridicule in the words, but his sincerity could be heard, which made Paul laugh happily and nodded, "I deeply agree with this."

"Degree and Passion/Love 5" was officially announced a week ago, and the later shooting never went wrong again, and all shooting progressed very smoothly. Paul has personally experienced the entire filming process, and I really can't agree more with Andre's comment just now. This series of works has reached the fifth part, and he participated in the shooting of four of them, but has never had such a shooting experience, which is really eye-opening.

Paul believes Fan will agree with him.

After the shooting, Paul chose a quiet coastline according to his own habits, had a good time surfing, and relaxed on vacation. It just so happened that he encountered the best surfing season of the year.

Every December, the waves on Oahu, Hawaii, are the best season, and at least three international surfing competitions will be held on Oahu at this time.

For Hollywood, it's the kickoff of awards season of the year, with the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles that few want to miss. However, for Paul, those noises have nothing to do with him, so he will not easily miss the prosperity of Hawaii every year.

This time, Paul invited Renly to go along with him. When "Desire 5" was launched, they discussed going surfing on Oahu together, and Renly seemed very proactive. However, from time to time, after entering the awards season, "Buried Alive" has shown a good upward momentum. Logically speaking, it is best for him to return to Los Angeles and start the work of the school's public relations.

Paul had thought Renly would decline, but he still offered the invitation out of courtesy. Unexpectedly, Renly nodded and agreed! So, he was fortunate enough to see the scene just now.

After the surfing was over, Renly fell back on the surfboard, slid with both hands, and slowly slid in the direction of Paul and Andre.

In Hawaii in December, the temperature is still maintained at around 20 degrees, warm and comfortable, without the heat of midsummer, but far from the cold of winter, occasionally there will be some thunderstorms, and the water vapor like rain and fog makes the air flutter and restless. Hot air, I can't help but want to roam in it and relax completely.

Fortunately for Renly, instead of going to Los Angeles, he came to Hawaii. He needs a vacation. The two consecutive works of "Love Crazy" and "Degree and Passion/Love 5" were filmed in series. In nearly four months, there was no room to breathe. One work is spiritual. Overdraft, a work is physical consumption, like a roller coaster

The ups and downs of the game were really exhausting, and he needed to let his tense mind relax before he could get back to work.

More importantly, he needs to slow down and enjoy the scenery of life.

Surfing is a wonderful thing. It seems to be integrated with the sea, and it seems to be driving the waves. The whole person is soaked in the magic of nature, and really releases the sound of the wind, the splashing water, and the flowing waves. , the pull of gravity, everything is so wonderful, only by truly feeling the rhythm of the waves, can you enjoy the free style on the surfboard.

Just now, it was the first time that he had surfed the entire wave without mistakes, mistakes, or flaws. From the rising period of the wave to the disappearance of the entire wave, he performed the surfing process completely; It was still a big wave of nearly six meters.

This is different from rock climbing, it feels a completely different limit, but the joy and enjoyment of embracing freedom is similar. Renly finally understood why some people were so keen on surfing and doing it every day and never tire of it. He has now also started to fall in love with the sport.

"Papapa", not only Paul and Andre, but other surfers also applauded and praised Renly.

This is the east coast of Oahu, a relatively private surfing spot known to true surfers. If the North Shore of Oahu is a paradise for professionals, then the East Shore is a paradise for amateurs.

The waves here are turbulent enough, but not as dangerous as the tubular waves on the north shore. Occasionally, you can encounter top waves of five or six meters high, which is really suitable for intermediate and advanced amateur players. .

Renly and the others are not alone here. On the gentle sea near the beach, there are more than a dozen surfboards floating on them, with surfers of different ages sitting on them. When they're not surfing, they'll choose to stay further away to recover, but when they're ready to continue surfing, they'll slide to the front waiting area and start waiting for the wave.

Renly was also not humble, but made a curtain call for the stage play, and then returned to Paul and Andre's side.

Andre patted the palm of his left hand lightly with the fingers of his right hand. There was almost no applause. He just made a gesture of applause to express his respect and sighed, "Sure enough, Renly is still Renly."

Time passed, and they were no longer Eton children; but, seeing each other again, Renly could still amaze and admire him.

It's been several months since the last free-hand rock climbing, and I didn't expect that the two would actually meet again in Hawaii, and it's another extreme sport in a surfing paradise. After leaving the aristocratic circle of London, the two found common ground and the bridge of friendship was rebuilt again.

Renly said with a smile, "But Andre isn't that Andre anymore."

This sentence made both of them smile slightly. Andre bent down, wet his arms with sea water, brushed his messy head back to avoid the hanging silk from blocking his view, and said to Paul and Renly, "I'm out."

After speaking, Andrei started paddling with both hands and went to the front area to wait for the waves.

"I have seen before, the surfer's whole body is rolled up in the wave, sprinting up and down in the inner wall of the wave, and needs to resist the effect of gravity..."

Renly described to Paul that he had experienced the surfing style when he watched the movie "Ultimate Thief" in his last life. He actually participated in it and felt more exciting than expected, but it seemed to be the same as the movie. different.

Paul immediately responded, "That's the barrel wave, that's the most difficult. Like you said, it needs to fight against gravity, it needs to form inertia, it's not just a matter of balance, it needs high skills. "For surfing, Paul is Renly's teacher. "I once went to the North Shore to challenge, wow, that experience was really unbearable, and I fell so blue that it was like being beaten for two days and two nights."

The vivid description made Renly laugh out loud, "I'm a little curious when you say that. Isn't there a professional surfing competition on the North Shore tomorrow? How?

Grasp every moment of the present, cherish every moment of the present, and interpret life in a completely different color. This is the real life.

Support (end this site) and share this site with those who need it! Can't find the book, please leave a message!

Tap the screen to use advanced tools Tip: You can use left and right keyboard keys to browse between chapters.

You'll Also Like